Southern Brisbane Nerf Club

Sunday, 25 May 2014

The Trudgeon, mod walkthrough

I've been wanting to do a Rapidstrike modification for a while now. But a LiPo in the battery tray and a pair of 180 motors, will make it perform marvellously, but it will not look too different from a stock Rapidstrike. I wanted to make my Rapidstrike my Rapidstrike. So here is what I did.

Those who modify the shells of their blaster do it out of practicality or take make the blaster their own unique signature weapon, for me it was both of these reasons.

Shell mods are nothing new for the Rapidstrike. Master keys and size reductions amongst the most common types of shell mods for the RS (Rapdistrike). Shell integrations are a thing too. Usually it's the rear end of a Firefly or a Roughcut master key. I wanted to do something different, something that (to my knowledge) had not been done before. I looked at several blasters including the Rayven and was surprised to see that the dimensions were almost exact. I later discovered that (if cut the right way) the shells matched up perfectly!

Firstly, I gutted the Rayven. Then I cut the Rayven on the forward of the tac rail, at the bottom of the handle and just behind the grip. When I cut, I always leave more than what I need. "You can always take away, but you can't add" is a handy rule to keep in mind when chopping up shells, PVC, Brass etc.

I then cut the rear end off of the RS at the of the handle (pic).

And then I cut some shell from the bottom of the RS's handle.

Then I gutted the RS too.

Then it was just a matter of trimming the cut edges until the shells matched up perfectly. I used a straight piece of steel to make sure the top tac rails where dead straight.

I then used dabs of hot glue to tack the shells together holding them in place then used epoxy putty to fix them permanently. Sanding the surfaces first to ensure better adhesion.

Once the two shells where together, I noticed that the transition between the two shells was very abrupt so what I did was. Take the cheek rest shell from the RS and remove all the posts and wall from the inside of the shell then carve it into a shape that would fit the contours of the Rayven shell, I did this on both sides. Making the transition from RS to Rayven nice and smooth.

Once both sides of the blaster shell where done it was time for surface prep and painting. I put down a base coat of VHT Vinyl Dye Satin Gun Grey first then back masked all the bits I wanted to keep grey.

Then I lay down a top coat of VHT Vinyl Dye Satin Black.

Now it's time to work on the electronics. I began with removing the resistors and circuit boards from the motors and soldering higher gauge wire parallel between the two. The rear most wire is the negative and goes to the negative terminal of the battery. The positive wire goes to the flywheel micro switch. After this photo was taken I coloured the negative wire black with a pen.

Now the trigger assembly. There are two white wires connected to the micro switch for the flywheels, I removed both and soldered on some higher gauge leads. One goes to the battery and the other goes to the motors. This creates a bottle-neck for resistance at the micro switch, but any resistance provided by the micro switch, shouldn't be as much as the thin nasty wires that were in there to begin with. And the switch will be replaced eventually anyway. There are reasons I kept this one in at the time I took these photos and they are all time based.

There are three wires that connect to the kill switch in the jam door. The black one can be removed, then the yellow and blue ones can be shortened then spliced together and the join covered with electrical tape or heat-shrink. I would recommend heat-shrink.

Also, don't forget to remove the resistors from the pusher motor like I did, so you don't have to take everything apart again... like I did.

I kept the locks in the trigger assembly, but you don't have too. Coop772 has a video on how to remove them. But bear in mind, activating the pusher without the flywheels running is bad. That's the reason I left the locks in.

I connected a 9V battery stud to the pusher motor (again, a temporary measure) and tested the pusher mech and all good! Then I connected the Rayven battery bay to the Rapidstrike's in sequence. With standard batteries, this gives the flywheels 12V. As I wanted to get this ready for a mate's birthday party that weekend, I needed this thing done quickly and couldn't wait for the 180 motors and the LiPo to come in the mail. I found that the wire cover that protects the wires from the clip/mag was no longer able to cover the wires due to the increase in size, so I held the wires in place with some hot-glue and cut away any glue that would inhibit the motion of the clip/mag.

Now it was time to put the shell back together!

For extra orange, I used the jam door and battery cover from a Rayven Stinger. An unexpected outcome is that the black battery cover and jam door suit the Rayven Stinger better than the orange ones did.

Left side.

Right side with tac light made from old bicycle light.

Glamour shot.

I can't wait to get The Trudgeon into it's final form. Watch this space for a YouTube video of the development process!

~ Rob


  1. Somehow it reminds me of a stampede...

  2. sweet! now make a rayven afterburner mod. with RM2 frount motors, and use a baricade's motor harness to use bigger blade 270 motors, rig with Lipo batterys (18 volts works great, up to 24 works fine,) it shoots lazers. like homeade power, in a stock shell

    1. I hate hate hate hate hate hate the term 'afterburner' and and mod. It's not pretty.

  3. I'm probably going to masterkey my Longshot with a rapidstrike... Then again, I'll dual-wield Vulcans with dual Rayvens as sidearms, so I'm not exactly a paragon of sanity when it comes to loadout.

    1. Note: Do not do that if you're not your team's heavy. Or if you have to move faster than a crawl, ever, because that loadout is HEAVY if modded batteries aren't allowed. 12x D batteries, ugh.

  4. Tried this mod using your instructions. I got to the point of joining the 2 shells together and the entire thing racked beyond repair. How did you overcome this issue?

    1. These aren't instructions, just what I did. But, what do you mean by "racked up"?

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