Southern Brisbane Nerf Club

Tuesday, 1 July 2014


I'll be honest, I've been avoiding this write up. This is the longest project I've ever undertaken and because I'll be starting studies soon, it'll be my last for a while, at least on this scale. This is more of an overview really, I wouldn't call this a guide. Nor would I recommend anyone actually do this mod. Three blasters had to die to make this.

Let's start with the money shot

In that photo the Centy looks pretty much normal. You can see the horizontally mounted flywheels in front of the Mega clip and the micro switch button on the grip but that's about it really. There is also the Barricade motor housing in the barrel extension but because it's orange, it looks like it's meant to be there. On the other side it's a bit different.

You can see the wires coming out of the jam door opening and going into a screw connector. The screw connector allows the wires to be disconnected an allows the barrel to be removed.

Size Reduction.

With the absence of the Centurion's internals I had a lot of wasted space inside the centurion. And I couldn't find anything functional to fill most of it so I decided on a size reduction, but, I didn't want to ruin the contours of the shell. So I calculated the cuts required and drew the cut lines here

This reduces the length of the Centurion by about 81mm. I could've cut out more, but the lines of the shell wouldn't have matched. Like they do as seen here. By using a metal ruler to make sure everything is straight, I tacked the parts of the shell together and let it cool. Then used epoxy putty to secure the hold.

I'm really happy with the results of the size reduction. I was considering reduction the barrel as well but decided not too because I wanted to keep the tac rail intact.


I thought about making the Mega Strike semi auto but the Rayven's pusher didn't have enough draw and nor did the Barricade's. But the Rapidstrike's has an extra 10mm of draw and was perfect. And with using the RS's dart pusher, it made the Mega Strike full auto. But because of where I placed the pusher, I needed to extend it by 10mm and found a silicone grease tube cap to be perfect.

But the RS pusher created more problems than the one is solved. As we know, the RS has a micro switch that cuts the power to the pusher when it gets to the resting position, once we release the trigger. I didn't have that. All I was able to get my hands on was the pusher it self and nothing else. So I had to make my own kill switch. Sounds easy enough. Right?

Well no, it wasn't easy at all. You can't have the kill switch pressed when the pusher is retracted fully because it will continue to spin with momentum and then the micro switch will be released again. The trick was with the timing, and timing it took lots of time. Is that irony? Anyway, I was eventually able to make my own kill switch button presser thingy and it was timed correctly. It looks dodgy, but it works.

The wire is used as a guide to keep a spring straight, in front of the pressure pad, is a piece of dowel with a hole drilled in one side and a piece of foam glued to the other. The wire is glued into the hole and the spring is placed over the wire, then the wire is inserted through another piece of dowel with a hole drilled through it. I then used side cutters to create some barbs on the wire to ensure the pressure pad is lifted off of the micro switch by the forward piece of dowel.

The pusher is held in place with hot glue. I covered the pusher housing with silicone grease, held it in place and used copious amounts of hot glue around housing. Then waited for it to cool and simply removed the pusher. The result is a perfect socket for the pusher housing to fit into. I also found a rail inside the shell that assisted in supporting the pusher nicely. After much testing, I had to use a blob of epoxy putty to reinforce the micro switch because the pressure pad was hitting it with such force, it would simply break off.


Putting the motors in the barrel was easy. I used the Barricade motor housing for that. Because the Barricade was made to fire whistler darts, the flywheels are further apart than anything made to shoot streamlined darts. I cut the housing in half and increased the space between the wheels by 5mm, I found this to be the best distance.

The flywheels nearest to the clip/mag needed to be really close to the dart in the clip. Vertically mounting the Rayven motor housing wasn't going to work because the diameter of the wheels kept it at a distance. But. After increasing the space between the flywheels by 8mm, I found that the motor housing would fit nicely horizontally.

I carefully cut holes to allow the Rayven motor housing through the shell. I then glued the mag well into one piece and hot glued the Rayven motor housing into position, making it one piece collectively. I also removed all the springs and gears that were on the mag well too. I kept the clip lock to hole it in and that was it.

Testing (part one).

I soft assembled the blaster and attached the barrel and using a 6v test peer source, activated the flywheels (all four of them). SUCCESS! the darts were not jamming in the barrel and were being spat out nicely!


As this was a proof of concept and not (at this stage) a performance mod, I wasn't going to splurge on a LiPo or any number of Trustfire batteries. Regular ordinary everyday AA batteries are what I settled on, four for the pusher and eight for the flywheels.

I removed the thin wires that came with the eight AA battery holder and attached some 12v/10a wire to reduce resistance.

I kept the thin wire that came with the four AA holder, because I didn't was ridiculous ROF (only 6 darts, 12 later). I wired both battery holders and the micro switches.

Testing (part 2).

• Tested the the rev trigger = works
• Tested the pusher trigger = works
• Tested the pusher's kill switch = works
• Tested firing darts with 3 in the clip = @#%& YEAH!

Time to reassemble.

I will say this for the Centurion, the shell is fun to work with, there is so much you can do with it but there are a lot of screws.

Final Testing.

• Loaded mega clip = check
• All electronics working = check
• Tested flywheels with single Mega dart = check

I inserted the clip, revved the flywheels and fired.


Now, you'd think I'd be more excited that it works, but, from start to finish, this build two weeks to make. Two weeks of my spare time spent on cutting, soldering, fitting, testing, troubleshooting, wiring, drilling, glueing, epoxying. I just wanted it done!

The ROF is ok, it'll empty a six round clip in about one second. Range... well, the fact that it fires at all I'm happy with. Ok?

~ Rob


  1. Nice man! I see you went MEGA HAM on this one! I like seeing innovative new mods like this one, no matter what the outcome. Great work!

  2. Nice job man, i might try to make this one time


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